[Apple-Crop] apply pre emergence to new trees ��after mechanical removal?k

Fri Jun 16 08:17:14 EDT 2017

I have had good luck with young nursery trees painting the trunks with thick latex white paint, protects from voles and can spray gylsofate riht on them with small hand sprayer with flat fan nozzle. Paraquat works too but is so toxic to use. suckers have to be removed of course, Lee Elliott Upstart Nursery Winchester IL
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On Tue, 6/13/17, Vincent Philion <vincent.philion at irda.qc.ca> wrote:

 Subject: Re: [Apple-Crop] apply pre emergence to new trees ��������after mechanical removal?k
 To: "Apple-Crop discussion list" <apple-crop at virtualorchard.com>
 Date: Tuesday, June 13, 2017, 8:30 PM

 Vincent Philion, agr., M.Sc.

 Le 13 juin 2017 à 20:09, Brian Heatherington <brian at beechcreekorchards.com>
 a écrit :

 Doug,
 The good news is you will have plenty of nitrogen.
 Unfortunately alfalfa has an extremely deep and powerful
 root system that make it difficult to eradicate by
 mechanical means. Growing up on a dairy, I plowed 5 yr. old
 alfalfa on sandy soil that had roots
  at least 2 ft. deep. In California alfalfa roots have
 reached 49 ft. deep!
 I'm not sure what part of the country you're in
 but your weed control strategy will depend on whether
 you're in the arid West or the sometimes very wet East.
 Also porosity of soil. Go towards lower herbicide rates on
 sandy or gravely soil. Since your trees
  are non bearing, PHI will not be a factor. You just need to
 avoid stunting or killing them. Safe preemergent choices
 would probably be Solicam, Surflan, or Prowl, again,
 depending on your climate, rainfall patterns, and prevailing
 weeds. I like Solicam for
  grass prevention. I have clay soil, my climate varies from
 jungle to desert (sometimes in a single season), and I take
 the maximum rate and apply half of it in spring and the
 other half in the fall, which is a common practice in the
 southeast. Application
  under drip is no problem. In fact, the wet strip is where
 weeds will first appear. You do need rainfall within
 x number of days after application in order for these
 products to work.

 In the west there are ongoing trials of alfalfa cover
 crops in apples. I think the biggest negatives have been
 delayed fruit maturity and rodent burrowing. If you're
 in a dry climate with easy to work soils you might do well
 with removal by tillage, maybe
  with a weed badger. If not, then consider plan B: while
 glyphosate is generally not recommended around young trees,
 I have successfully used it around newly planted trees using
 tree guards and a hand wand at very low pressure under
 relatively windless conditions.
  Become very familiar with drift potential from your
 equipment before doing so. On 5 acres of trees this might
 not be feasible, but then again, depending on your method of
 mechanical removal, it might.

 For application by tractor, I generally prefer gramoxone
 for young trees, but have applied glyphosate to 1st yr.
 plantings with a mid mount orchard boom, 30 psi with air
 induction nozzles. I use an old school boom with a cable and
 pulley going into the cab
  to quickly and precisely vary the angle of the boom to
 eliminate trunk contact above the guard. Just make sure you
 don't spray any suckers. If you do, go back and cut them
 off. You can also spray to within 4-6" of the tree and
 clean up the unsprayed strip
  later. 

 This application would best be applied soon rather than
 later in the summer; you can come back later with gramoxone
 or another burn down herbicide and burn off alfalfa
 regrowth. The only reason I suggest doing this during the
 current season is the fact that
  you will have more root suckers next year, and you will
 probably have to use glyphosate at some point if you want to
 truly eradicate the alfalfa.
 Clopyralid (Stinger) is very good for reducing clover
 (and should work for alfalfa) for an entire summer, but
 trees have to be in the ground for 1 year, and trunk contact
 is not allowed even for older trees. It could be helpful
 next season.

 You can also burn down multiple times this summer, and
 start with systemic means next season. Upon completion, you
 will have a nice mat of dry legume releasing nitrogen,
 choking out weeds, and eliminating erosion. So in my
 opinion, the end result will be
  worth the extra caution with the sprayer.
 I use cheap, reusable guards that are .35 USD each:
 http://frostproof.com/corrugated-sprout-saver-ii-tree-wraps-14h-x-8w/
 +
 http://frostproof.com/12-inch-plastic-coated-wire-twist-ties-box-of-2000/

 Brian
 Heatherington

 Beech Creek Orchards
 LLC

 2011 Georgia Highway
 120

 Tallapoosa, Georgia,
 30176

 On 6/13/2017 9:50
 AM, Doug Nelson wrote:

 Newbie orchard
 question

 We expanded our orchard of 500 tall spindle to a 5000 tree
 orchard. The trees have been in the ground for 3 months. The
 new trees were planted in an alfalfa field.  I have gotten
 a handle on my trellis and irrigation. The
  alfalfa is out of control. Once I have removed alfalfa
 via contact herbicide and mechanical removal should i apply
 a pre emergence herbicide or wait to apply in
  the fall. What mixture of pre emergence should i use with
 first year planted trees? Can you apply pre emergence while
 you have irrigation running or is that unsafe for
 roots?

 -- 

 Doug Nelson

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[Apple-Crop] apply pre emergence to new trees ��������after mechanical removal?k

[Apple-Crop] apply pre emergence to new trees ��after mechanical removal?k